An Effortless Journey to the Island of Endeavor (An almost complete guide to Koh Phayam, Thailand)

This article will include all the details and information on a trip to Koh Phayam; mainly the travel essentials you need to know. Before the actual trip, I couldn't find any detailed information about the island itself, which is the reason why I am writing this up, as I wanted to know about all the little details, literally from the st art. So, with that I hope you all will enjoy reading this, and that the information provided might be of some help to anyone out there currently looking at this little island for a holiday destination. The information may not be complete as it is only a 3 days- 2 nights trip (you reckon I can't go all places with that limited amount of time) so I'll say this is an "almost" complete guide to Koh Phayam.

By the way, when I say the Island of Endeavor, 'Phayam' in Thai means 'to try hard', with that, I would say it was an effortless trip, but surprisingly memorable.

My initial plan was to go to Koh Tao and Koh Nangyuan, as I was ready to book a ticket for transportation and even looked at the hotels. But because it requires a lot of savings and probably exceeds the financial plan I had in mind (4-5k per night at least, which is a lot), I changed my mind and decided to go on a trip to Koh Phayam instead. Despite the initial thought of it being less beautiful, transportation fees and accommodation fees are so much lower. Surprisingly, when arrived, the island's beauty exceeded my expectations.

P.S. The first time I heard of Koh Phayam was when I surfed through the net; several forums in Pantip.com that included The Blue Sky Resort in their forum caught my attention. The resort is expensive, luxurious and at first I thought it was the only hotel there in Koh Phayam. Really, though, there are numerous bungalows available under fair rates starting from 200-600 baht per night, and 800-1500 baht per night at sea-view places. The island itself isn't exactly bad; what I can say is that it is a very peaceful, quiet island suitable for anyone who hates being in crowded places. Here in Koh Phayam, you will find many backpackers and families enjoying their time.

How to Get There

The distance from Bangkok to Ranong is approximately 600 kilometers, which is quite a long trip driving to get there. The way can be described simply as being very devious, curvy, crooked, and before you get there, you'd probably wear out. With that, I would recommend going there by bus (Bor Kor Sor's Niwamit Tour/ Choke Anan Tour/ Sombat Tour) and if you don't mind paying a little more for transportation, go with the VIP seat. I was on the Por.1 (ป.1) bus with Choke Anan Tour which costs around 466 baht. The car was okay, but the driver didn't drive very well, though; I would definitely go with Sombat Tour next time.

I got on the car around 8.20 pm to Bor Kor Sor Ranong at around 5 am; you will see a red cab with a banner that says 'Koh Phayam - Koh Chang to pier' but you can also take a motorcycle ride. I took a cab because I wanted to go to 'Wat Hard Som Pan' (a temple) but there was limited time so I couldn't get there. The cab fee was 100 per person but I negotiated and had a deal of only 90 baht per person for that ride.

Tha Rue Tetsaban Park Nam sub-district is the major pier to Koh Phayam, with two types of boat: the normal boat and the speed boat. For the normal boat, the schedule is set at 9.30 am and 2.30 pm, which requires 2 hours and costs 150 baht. The speed boat starts its schedule at 10.00 am and 2.30 pm where it takes only 40 minutes to get, however, the cost is 270 baht per person (there is also another rate which costs 350 baht, but I have no idea what the difference is). I, of course, went with the normal boat ride at 9.30 am where all I remember was that the boat went really slowly, as it also needs to carry items to and fro for the people living in the island. As I took a ride half-asleep, I finally reached the island at 11.30 am.

Getting Around the Island

Getting around the island requires a motorbike. However, if you don't know how to ride one yourself, I recommend you to take a ride as there are many motorbike services offered here. Luckily, if you know how to ride one, there are numerous places you can rent a motorbike and go around the island. For a normal geared motorcycle, the rental fee is only 150 baht per day (I am not sure what the rate for an auto-geared bike is, but I would always go for a normal geared one to make sure it's safe and easier to travel up down steep and shallow places). There are many places offering motorbikes for rent; many are available at areas around the pier and even some bungalows offer rental services.

The main road around the island is made out of concrete, so it's easy to get around unless you plan on going to gulfs or pass through ways getting to bungalows, as there may be unexpected bumps and gravels to get through.

 

The Big Gulf

After renting a motorbike, I rode on and on without knowing where the road leads to. I booked a room at 'Aou Khao Kwai' or the 'Buffalow Horn Gulf', but got lost on the way going there. I rode to the 'Big Gulf' or 'Aou Yai' instead, and took the opportunity to make a short stop and capture its beauty.

At the first glance, I knew right away what beauty truly is. The sandy beach is huge and what surprised me the most is its navy blue water and its black and white sand gravel particles. And so, the water is both clear and turbid (isn't it surprising?); when you get down to the water, you'll see sandy ridges, which is new to me. You can definitely get down the beach and play, as many tourists come in the afternoons. The sand is both soft and rough (again very surprising to me); you can ride your bike down to where the rougher sands are.

There are two roads that leads to two ways at the Big Gulf: coming from the pier, turning left to at the first intersection leads to the way to the end of the beach, while another way is to turn left at the second intersection (nearby a school) which leads to the northern part or the head of the beach. There are numerous hotels, resorts, and bungalows along the beach line you can choose from.

Best Timings

Mornings: If you want to see the sky and the dark blue sea waters, you must come in the morning. The sun shifts towards the back (moves behind) and during low tide, it allows you to see the beautiful sandy ridges.

Afternoons: It's pretty hot during this time of the day; if you're into taking photos, the sun is really strong so it's not very good to take photos of the beach during this time.

Evenings: You definitely need to come see the sunset! At this time, many tourists are seen strolling along the beach and enjoy their time in the water.

Recommended Places to Eat

'Friends Bungalow' is located up the north of the beach; I decided to make a stop here while I was riding around, finding a place to chill out in the evening. This place has a wooden deck where you can sit and relax yourself, seeing the beautiful sun as it sets. Food and drinks are available here; I highly recommend their 'Banana Pancake' although I wished I could have tried their cheesecake but sadly, it was all sold by then.

The Pros and Cons of the Big Gulf

Pros: The beach is wide and sandy, where you can enjoy your time in water here comfortably. There are waves, cool wind, beautiful scenery both in the morning and in the evening, and a wide variety of accommodations as well as places to eat.

Cons: The sand is color mixed (black and white), which makes the water somewhat turbid, and the gulf is pretty far from the pier (but I'd say the road to the beach isn't bad at all).

 

The Buffalo Horn Gulf (Aou Khao Kwai)

Onto the Buffalo Horn Gulf, I headed straight to where I booked a room at, which is: Vijitra Bungalow for 800 baht per night; it is located at the south of the gulf.

The Buffalo Horn Gulf is divided into two parts: the south and the north. If you prefer somewhere that's calm and quiet, with only 4 to 5 accommodations, you will like the southern part of the gulf along with its peaceful nights. The northern part of the gulf is livelier, with music that plays loud enough to even reach some parts the south. The first night I was there, numerous fireworks were even lit to light up the night.

If you compare both of the gulfs in terms of their beauty, I would say the Buffalo Horn Gulf might be less satisfying when compared to the Big Gulf, though, it has its own beauty to appreciate. White and fine sand particles are probably major pros, however, there are muds from time to time because it is close to a rainforest. When there are low tides here, it can be a little lonely. However, this means you can walk further out to the beach than you usually could, as the tides are low. If you go to the left side of the beach, you'll find the village of the Morgans (but I haven't gone there because the sun was too strong that day).

Best Timings

Mornings: Both the water and the sky is of darker shade of blue; as for the best location for photography, I'd recommend going further to the south of the gulf as there is a rock that looks like an arch.

Afternoons: Walking out to the beach during afternoon's low tide feels lonely and empty, but surprisingly enjoyable.

Evenings: You can come here to see the sunset as well! The sunset is visible at the left side of the gulf, so you might only see the sun rays as it sets but not the sun setting down as it touches the water.

Recommended Places to Eat

The first and only meal I had at the Buffalo Horn Gulf was at Vijitra Bungalow, which was costly; food offered here had the tastes I did not prefer and therefore, will recommend you all to eat somewhere else.

The Pros and Cons of the Buffalo Horn Gulf(South)

Pros: The gulf is quite peaceful, as it gives off an empty vibe. There are low tides here that make it even more interesting to take a stroll at the beach, walking further into the water. Plus, the waves aren't high compared to other beaches.

Cons: The beach is quite shallow, so it is not recommended for any of you who wants a deep dip in water. There may be some spots where muds and clays can be found, along with extremely hot climate without cool wind.

 

Vijitra Bungalow

There are numerous peaceful and reasonably priced hotels, bungalows, and resorts you can choose from. I randomly chose one out of the places and stayed at the Southern part of the Buffalo Horn Gulf as I thought it was peaceful and quiet compared to other available ones. The room rates range from 300 to 1,500 baht; 800 baht and above rates are for beachside rooms, while the 300 baht room I stayed at wasn't by the beach (but not that far though).

Most places will not have electricity at all times (as in 24 hours of time) because they need to generate the electricity themselves. As for this bungalow, electricity is only available between 6 pm to 6 am. There is electricity at night, so there are no worries about not having fans to keep the heat away; but because electricity is not available during the day, I would recommend you to stay out as it is very hot, indeed.

The place, overall, was fine. The room has a sleeping net, a fan, towels, a bed, bed sheets, and clean pillows, with water running normally without problems. It may be a little hot in the evening, so if you aren't scared of geckos, feel welcome to leave the windows open. After midnight, though, temperature drops and it gets cooler.

The bungalow's manager is a Caucasian, while the employees are capable of speaking Thai and are mostly from Myanmar. To book a room, it is mandatory to fill in a form on the website and wait for an email from Kris (I guess he should be a German as I saw some German texts on the site) that you have made a reservation. To confirm the reservation, make a call at least 3 days in prior to the check-in date.

The Pros and Cons of Vijitra Bungalow

Pros: The room was reasonably priced, clean, and it adopts a private and peaceful atmosphere that leads to high numbers of tourists with family members and even children staying here. Plus, the employees from Myanmar offered guests excellent services.

Cons: The room I chose to stay wasn't a beachside room, with limited airflow, and unexpected heat (oh well, this gulf has less wind anyways).

 

Kwang Peep Gulf

While I was looking for information about this gulf, I noticed how the place only has one resort: Kwang Peep Resort, where the room rate ranges between 900 to 2,500 baht (a little over the budget). The way to the resort is a little complex so I decided not to stay although I heard the beach is beautiful and that it is a great place to do some diving here. I rode my motorbike all the way here to had lunch, despite its beauty, though, I haven't stayed here throughout the night.

You can simply go to this gulf by heading towards the North of the island, where the road gradually narrows down until you reach a gravel path that leads you to a few paths going up and down slopes. The steepest slope is just right before you reach the Kwang Peep gulf (but it isn't that bad compared to that of Koh Samed's). You can definitely ride a motorbike to the resort without much of a hassle.

Here, you can find the most Caucasian tourists due to the gulf's peaceful and beautiful beach. The water is transparent and crystal clear; this highly attracts people from everywhere. I had lunch here at the resort and snorkeled until my skin burned and reddened (although not much is to be seen underwater, more like it's just an activity to kill time).

Best Timings

I was at the gulf for 2 hours and a half: from 10 am to 12.30 am and so it would be hard to describe the atmosphere during its mornings and afternoons, or know the best timings for when the sun rises or sets, as the gulf is north of the island (we might need someone to help answer this).

Pros and Cons of Kwang Peep Gulf

Pros: This gulf has the most beautiful beach among others within Koh Phayam, along with its peaceful atmosphere, a decent resort, and delicious, reasonably priced meals (it was only 240 baht for the meal I had last time).

Cons: Getting there might be a little difficult because of the road; getting around and/or to other beaches at night might be a little hard.

 

The Widow Gulf

Once you reach Koh Phayam, the first gulf you'll encounter is the Widow gulf, which is a center point for stores and motorbike repair shops. However, you can't play in the water here at this gulf, as it is filled with rocks and reefs; the beach is full of trash and litter. Not far from the beach lies the Koh Phayam temple known for its church in the middle of water. If you take a boat ride to the island, you can definitely see the church from afar before arrival.

Best Timings

Mornings: Well, it is a must to come see the sunrise here at this gulf. The gulf itself faces towards the east, and if you walk along the beachside you might have to be aware of litter in forms of glass or sharp materials, as well as dogs that may bark their "hellos" to you.

Afternoons: The sky and the water here at this gulf is colored in a darker shade of blue, while the beachside is peach colored and is somewhat different and charismatic in its own way when compared to that of the Big gulf and the Buffalo Horn gulf of the west.

Evenings: You will see light shades of sun rays in the evening; when it gets dark, you can enjoy chilling at places nearby the beachside.

Pros and Cons of the Widow Gulf

Pros: The sunrise in the early morning is indeed mesmerizing; it is a center point for stores, shops, and goo restaurants.

Cons: The beachside is full of trash and litter, especially pieces of glass and sharp materials; it is a must to be extremely careful to look out for these hazards.

 

The Blue Sky Resort

Although I haven't stayed here for a night because a night here equals to the costs of the entire trip (I will let you know the total costs of the trip), now that I am here, why not a short stop? Just a stop for appetizers, though.

The resort's dining place has been designed to own its significance beauty that comes along with just the right atmosphere to dine. I was there at around afternoon, so the weather was extremely hot and humid. Once you enter the place, right at the moment you get under the roof, you can feel the chill that's cooling down the entire place like magic. The price of food offered here is higher than those of other places for around 20 to 30 baht, as other places offer dishes that are from 80 to 90 baht. Here, you get a plate of something in around 100 to 120 baht in average.

As for the dessert, I was recommended by the waitress the 'Blue Banana', which I have never heard of, but tried it anyway. It was like a plate of spring rolls with banana and blueberry fillings which I highly recommend! It was 140 baht and definitely worth trying.

During the evening, I was back here again for dinner because I wanted to capture photos of the place at night. The food was great, but again the atmosphere at night was distinctly different from the day in which you will find many westerners chilling and enjoying their meals. When night falls, you will be surprised to find many Thais dining here, in almost every corner of the restaurant. These Thais are probably those residing in the hotel, but it makes me wonder why none of them can be seen during the day apart from westerners.

As I haven't stayed here at the resort, I couldn't take photos of the rooms and its interior. However, at the time I was there, it was a low tide season where I personally think it would be much better to come when there is a high tide (you can ask for the resort for the best timings and the right season to visit the place).

Best Timings

Mornings: You needn't go anywhere to watch the sunrise as you can watch it from the resort.

Afternoons: During the afternoon, you can see that the water is of dark blue color, where you can enjoy chilling at beachside restaurants.

Evenings: Despite not being able to see the sunset, the atmosphere of the evening here is quite beautiful and worth it.

Pros and Cons of the Blue Sky Resort

As I haven't stayed here for a night, I couldn't provide any information regarding the pros and the cons. Let's pray for a day when a night at the resort is free!

 

Recommended Restaurant: You Mustn't Miss! Krua Khun Kauw Restaurant

The first thing you have to know when traveling to an island is that the average standard of living is higher than non-tourist attractions. So, this applies to the costs of meals in general, which is fine if the food tastes divine, but the opposite when the taste is of unsatisfactory. Beachside restaurants definitely charge more, some with delicious food and some your taste buds might disapprove. There are, though, numerous places you can enjoy delicious food, reasonably priced, but not by the beachside. If you prefer the latter, then I can recommend you: Krua Khun Kauw restaurant.

You can easily spot the restaurant if you're on your way to the Big gulf (the place is located nearby the intersection where there is a public school). Head straight along the way to the right that leads you to the South Buffalo Horn gulf and continue to go a little further, and you will find the restaurant at your right-hand side. The first time I stopped by at this restaurant was when I first saw a board that says 'Smoothies' right in front of the place. I ordered a takeout glass of strawberry smoothie, which indeed exceeded my expectations as the taste was kind of bold and very-strawberry (I'm sure you get what I mean, no?) for just 50 baht. Yes, 50 baht (which of course, is cheaper than that of other places) and it made me come back again for dinner.

The cost of food served here at this restaurant is considered cheaper than other restaurants. For instance, if you order the traditional Thai style soup with tofu, it is only 50 baht. I will recommend you what I think is probably the best the place offers: Pla Raad Prik (deep fried fish with chili sauce). It was divine, that I remembered myself crying and literally sobbing about how deliciously made it was. My taste buds were finally working properly for the first time in so many years (okay, I know it was a weird description, but anyways you get me don't you).

It was so good that I planned on ahead to come back for another meal. Sadly, many people find the place good as much as I do, and so at the time I went back to the restaurant, it was already closed (now you know that's how good it was of a place).

 

Island Doggies

One thing that tied my heart to the island is a group of island doggies. They were literally everywhere, at every corner of the island itself. You head to the north, you see them, you head to the beach, you catch them walking around you. And what's surprising, is that all of them are very friendly to people. Once you walk or stroll along the beachside, they approach you like buddies that'll want you to play along. When I was about to go up the ferry, I was wondering to myself why a man would carry along pet food up the ferry. As I reached the island, I then knew why.

The first dog I was friends with was at the 'Big gulf', where I met him right in front of the 'Friends Bungalow'. It was a brownish-colored dog that came to me, wagging its tail, as I was taking photos. As the waves curled, this little buddy would run straight to the waves without fear. Observing its every move, I was scared it would be curled up in those waves. However, more than I could have imagined, was a powerful, brave little brown dog I couldn't forget.

Another gang of doggies, I remember, was a trio. There were 3 teen dogs I found at the Buffalo Horn gulf, running out to the far side of the beach to catch their desired fish. I was wondering what they were up to, and so I did follow them and finally realized how smart and courageous they were, catching fish! It took these buddies an hour or so, without any fish they could catch. Seemed like these buddies knew there wasn't a chance, so they stopped the hunt and played in the water instead. There was this one dog that was so intensely into catching fish, while the two buddies left the spot and were already by the beachside. Suddenly, the tide goes up, without the dog being aware, I was so scared the it would drown. Luckily, the other two dogs barked loudly so this lonely little dog found its way back without drowning in water, back to where it belonged, safely.

 

Heading Back, To Where I Belong

As for the departure, there are two kinds of boat you can choose from: general boat from 8.30 am to 2.00 pm and a speed boat which starts its round from 9.00 am to 1.00 pm.

Generally, those who come to the island would go for the afternoon departure round to reach Ranong province in the evening. Then, most will take a bus back to Bangkok straight away to reach the destination in the morning. However, I didn't want to reach Bangkok in the morning and so I decided to take the general trip, departing from the island 8.30 a.m. to the mainland at around 10.30 a.m. There will be no 'Song Taew' or red cabs to take away from the pier to the bus station, so you will have to take a 'Kraba' or the general cab, which costs around 70 baht per person.

If you want to reach Bangkok before midnight, it is a must to take the tour bus in the afternoon only. Unluckily, Por.1 and VIP buses of every company only departs in the morning and in the evening; if you take the ferry in the afternoon, there'll probably be no buses around. At first, I thought of taking a cab from Ranong province to Chumpon province, which probably has more buses going in numerous rounds, but of course, I didn't have enough time and took the Por.2 instead.

Some of you may already know that the Por.2 bus is to be avoided when traveling. However, with the situation I was facing at that limited time, I had to take the bus at 1.30 pm, which took around 9 hours of traveling without cool air. The air within the bus was even hotter during the afternoon, but cooled during the evening. The bus seats were kind of rough and made it a little uneasy to sit on (I felt my buttocks burning), where the way to Chumpon was even a headache with all the devious paths, twists, and turns. It is best to prepare seasickness tablets with you to prevent unwanted occurrences. After a short stop to dine, I was back on the bus and found myself asleep until the bus stopped its journey at 'Sai Tai Mai' station.

The bus fee was 360 baht per person, which is around a hundred baht cheaper than Por.1 bus. If any of you think this is definitely a better choice because it is cheaper, I will tell you it's really not that worth it. You need to pay for your own meal, which costs around 35-40 baht; with thorough calculation, there isn't much you save unless you really need to be back at night and be ready to continue with your daily workplace routine the day after.

 

The Trip's Total Costs

Transportation and Accommodation Fees

• Getting There
• Por.1 bus fee: departure 466 baht/per person x 2 persons = 932 baht (I was also with another friend of mine)
• Cab fee from Bor-Kor-Sor to the pier: 90 baht/per person x 2 persons = 180 baht
• General boat fee: departure: 150 baht/per person x 2 persons = 300 baht
• Motorbike rental fee: 150 baht/per day x 2 days = 300 baht
• Gasoline fee (one-time refill): 50 baht/per bottle = 50 baht
• Accommodation fee: 300 baht/per night x 2 nights = 600 baht
• Way Back
• General boat fee: 150 baht/per person x 2 persons = 300 baht
• Cab fee from Bor-Kor-Sor to the pier: 70 baht/per person x 2 persons = 140 baht
• Por.2 bus fee: 360 baht/per person x 2 persons = 720 baht
• Total: 3,522 baht or 1,761 baht/ per person

 

• Costs of Meals
• First meal: breakfast on the first day at the pier = 120 baht
• Second meal: first day's lunch at Vijitra bungalow (with drinking water costs; calculated with this meal's costs) = 370 baht
• Third meal: dinner on the first day at Krua Khun Kauw's Restaurant = 310 (adding up smoothie and drinking water costs of 65 baht) = 375 baht
• Fourth meal: lunch on the second day at Kwang Peep Resort Restaurant = 240 baht (adding up snorkeling fees of 60 baht/ 2 snorkels) = 300 baht
• Fifth meal: late lunch and dinner on the second day at the Blue Sky Resort = 330 + 385 = 715 baht
• Sixth meal: lunch on the last day at a place nearby Bor-Kor-Sor = 170 baht
• Special meal: Banana pancake + a glass of Cola at Friends Bungalow = 103 baht
• Total: 2,153 baht or 1,076 baht per person

 

Total costs of the trip: 5,675 baht or 2,837 baht per person

Credit: https://pantip.com/topic/30305751